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As everywhere in rural Kosova, life has changed in Gjonaj, a village in the region of Has that I visited in the late 1980s as part of my dissertation research. We had a short visit to the home of Ramadan Totaj during my August trip. We ate fli on a sofra, danced in some well-preserved costume pieces, and held in our hands artifacts from the Ottoman era. We also had a joyous meeting with Miradi, one of the women in the Totaj family that hosted me during my time in Gjonaj. She enjoyed seeing herself in my book, and we took another “before and after” photos of Miradi chopping wood! I was also delighted to meet Sadete, from the same family, in the Prishtina airport on my way home to America.

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